This Simplicity sewing pattern is simple to sew but has some great techniques for the advanced beginner. We will cover all of them step by step in this Simplicity 9140 Sew Along.
Let’s get going on this adorable dress that works for lots of body types.
I hope you enjoy my dress images — it’s snowing here today — perfect for a review about a winter dress!
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The pattern, Simplicity 9140 has a modern look, but modest coverage. It will work with a variety of fabrics from wovens to knits. I used a crepe that has a little stretch and the dress went up like a dream. The relaxed pullover dress with several variations is a great pattern to add to your sewists basket of tricks.
Techniques We Will Cover
- Stay Stitching
- Fold over elastic
- Flat sleeve insertion
- How to press a sleeve cap
- How to gather a large skirt
- Side seam pockets
View The YouTube Sew Along
Stay stitching is sewn on a single layer of fabric. Its purpose is to keep a bias cut seam from stretching before it is sewn to another seam. In this instance, we stay stitch the neckline so it doesn’t get out of shape before we apply the neckline finishing technique.
Sew the stay stitching within the seam allowance or you will see it on your finished garment and need to unpick it. No fun.
Fold Over Elastic
Fold over elastic is a great option to finish a neck edge. Old fashioned facings roll out and are messy. Fold over elastic creates a beautiful finish, but it does require a little bit of practice. Using a Teflon foot will make the job go a lot more smoothly. It comes in lots of great colors so you can show off your personal style!
Bias binding is another great option. You can view my How To Make Bias Binding video if you would like to use that as an alternative to facings.
Flat Sleeve Insertion
In my opinion, this is the best way to insert a sleeve. Unless you have an excess of gathering in the sleeve cap, you need to explore inserting a flat sleeve.
I go into detail in the Sew Along video.
How To Press A Sleeve Cap
Pressing is key for a great looking sleeve cap. The best way to achieve a perfect look is with a Pressing Ham.
Check out the video for the 411 on pressing sleeve caps.
How To Gather A Large Skirt
Basting stitches are the way to go when gathering a large skirt. Use the longest stitch your machine has. Sew side seam to side seam leaving long thread tails. Stitch two rows, one within the seam allowance and one outside the seam allowance (you will have to remove this one after the seam is sewn). Then gather each section separately.
You will see a demonstration of this in the video.
Side Seam Pockets
I love pockets – even if they are not in the pattern, I typically add them. With a few simple steps you can have excellent looking pockets.
Yup, you guessed it, check out the video for detailed instructions.
Simplicity Sewing Pattern 9140
This relaxed pullover dress comes in several styles with a loosely shaped skirt. The sleeve length variations give you lots of great options. I like sewing the new Simplicity pattern options. I think they have really stepped up their pattern drafting game. Which helps us amp up our sewing and fitting game as well. You can find hundreds of Simplicity sewing patterns in my Etsy shop – Sewing With Sandi.
That wraps up my Simplicity 1940 Sew Along and pattern review. If you are looking for more information about fitting, start with my Draping 101 class — a great fit will make you love sewing.
PS Check out my List of Patterns Perfect for Beginners for easy to sew patterns.