Using Burda 6496 Faux Wrap Dress
A beautifully lined dress looks expensive, feels expensive, and is so easy to accomplish. It should be your goto finishing technique. Adding a dress lining is an easy pattern hack — it can be accomplished with almost any pattern. The best part — you get to ditch the facings. No more wrestling them back in place everytime you move — the lining will always keep your garment looking neat and expensive. Amp up your sewing skills with this dress lining pattern hack.
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The Pattern
For this pattern hack, I used Burda 6496 Faux Wrap Dress. You can replace any dress or top facings with a lining and enjoy the beautiful drape and finish of a well executed garment.
If facings popping out drives you crazy — I stop wearing garments that have annoying facings — you will love this lining hack.
The Fabric
This gorgeous dress is made with Minerva Exclusive Tropical Tiles Linen Viscose Blend Fabric. The linen is a dream to work with, it sews beautifully.
Lining Fabrics
I fully lined this dress because the linen is a touch sheer. For lining a dress you typically use a slippery, lightweight fabric. Different weights of lining are available, for instance a heavier lining is required for a coat. Be sure to choose a smooth lining fabric that works well with your fashion fabric.
Silk lining is super luxurious, but a poly works just as well for everyday wear – and it is easier to wash. Save the silk lining fabric for your favorite slip pattern. I love Simplicity 9729, it is easy to sew, fits great, and looks beautiful.
Pro Tip: If you are sewing with a stretch fashion fabric, use a stretch lining
Basics Of Lining Construction
There are only a few simple steps for converting facings to lining. You can line any pattern as long as you allow for turning your garments inside right — there needs to be an opening i.e. shoulders, waist, etc.
You can sew up a half lining — just the bodice or just the skirt. Or you can line the entire outer garment for a stunning professional finish and fit.
Seam Allowance
There is no need to change your seam allowances when adding a lining to your garment. Essentially you are sewing two dresses together — the outer fabric and the interior lining fabric, so the seam allowance stays consistent.
Cutting Out Your Lining Pattern Pieces
Cut a full set of front and back bodice and/or skirt pattern pieces from your fashion fabric and lining fabric. No need to cut out the facing pieces.
Adding Interfacing
You should still consider interfacing, it is part of the critical structure of your finished garment. Apply the interfacing directly to your fashion fabric or the lining.
Sewing The Bodice
Sew the lining pattern pieces in place of sewing the interfacing. For this pattern, I sewed the front and back at the shoulder seams on both the fashion fabric and lining. Then with the right sides together, stitch along the neck edge and arm hole. Clip curves as needed.
Turn your pieces right side out. In this case the back and waist are unsewn so turning is not difficult. Depending on the pattern construction, you may need to leave the shoulder seams open to turn it right side out.
Baste the edges together matching up seams and darts, making the garment one unit.
Sewing The Skirt
For a pattern with a back zipper, sew the skirt and lining darts and at the side seams. Attach the lining fabric to the fashion fabric at the waistline, wrong sides together.
If your skirt is not separate, treat the top as an all-in-one lining pattern.
Attach The Bodice To The Skirt
Attached the bodice to the skirt matching seams and darts for a clean, high end look.
Installing The Zipper
Install the zipper in the fashion fabric as you would normally. Then hand sew the lining to the zipper tap for a clean interior finish.
Hemming
The lining hem allowance should be shorter than the fashion fabric hem allowance. I cut my lining pieces 2 inches shorter than my dress. Simple serge the lining to reduce bulk. Hem the dress and you are ready to go.
When The Inside Looks As Good As The Outside
Adding Sleeve Lining
This garment doesn’t have sleeves, however lining them is simple. You use the same principle as adding a skirt.
Now if you are constructing a jacket lining, you will want to make the entire jacket and a second jacket lining, then bag the two together. With a jacket or coat, you may take off and you can showcase a clean interior finish.
The Quick Lining Video
Below is my quick – under 3 minutes – lining video. It has more photos and a short narrative. A sewing concept with pictures is sometimes easier to absorb.
Adding A Lining Fabric To Your Garment
Adding lining to your garment elevates the entire look. We sew to get a great fit and have high end, well finished garments. Adding a lining to your dress will make it drape better, aliviate the popping facings, help your fabric look great longer, and you won’t need to hunt for just the right slip. Get started on you own dress pattern lining hack today!
Happy Sewing,
Sandi
PS: This fabric was gifted by Minerva. You can read my review about the fabric on Minerva HERE
Here is what I know about fashion. Everyone’s taste is different. The opinions expressed here are mine alone. I’m just a girl who loves to sew. Here is a list of some of my favorite tools, techniques, and sources.
21 Tips To Take Your DIY Garment From Homemade To High End
Barrett’s Custom Design YouTube Sew Alongs, tips, tricks, and a few laughs
Sewing With Sandi Etsy Shop filled with patterns and other sewing items
Bernette 38 Sewing MachineRowenta Steam Iron for the best finishes